More is often best. More gin in that tonic? Yes, please. More seasons of The Walking Dead? Bring it on.

But more can also be completely pointless and sometimes even a waste of money. More frosting on that cupcake? Not unless you want it to go straight to your hips. More pimples on your chin? Absolutely not.

And this is the case when it comes to skincare and the amount of cream, serum, cleanser or treatment you use on your face. Firstly, in our opinion (and in most skincare specialists’ opinions for that matter), you can never apply too much sunscreen. But other than that, too much of your beloved beauty cream is often not a good thing – neither on your bank balance nor on your beloved complexion.

This is why we caught up with Dr. Lance Brown, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City and premiere skincare guru. So, what are the basic facts we need to know if we want to find our skincare products’ relative sweet spots? Well, they’re really quite simple…